West Highland Way – Planning & stages of Scotland’s most popular long-distance hike

Anyone who has ever been to Scotland or enjoys (long-distance) hiking has surely heard of the West Highland Way.

On our first trip to Scotland we first became aware of the West Highland Way when we saw a sweaty hiker with a large, fully packed backpack approaching us. We were on a road trip and stopped for a few photos at a popular viewpoint near Glencoe.

The 154km West Highland Way also runs through this stunning and unique Scottish landscape, from Glasgow up to Fort William.

At the time, we were in the middle of a multi-year trip around the world and hadn’t really discovered the appeal of multi-day hikes and traveling on foot for ourselves. So we never would have dreamed that one day we ourselves would hike 154 km over several days in a region where it rains quite a bit, even in the summer.

Now, many years later, we are again in Scotland, and now even with fully packed backpacks on the back on the road.

Okay, fully packed backpack is an exaggeration. Unlike the hiker we met back then, who was traveling with a tent and full camping gear, we mostly stay in bed & breakfasts and therefore don’t carry quite as much luggage.

In the meantime, we are enthusiastic hikers, but being on the road with tent and provisions is not really our thing. That being said, we just love the cozy B&B guesthouses in Scotland!

The beauty of the West Highland Way, however, is that both backpackers and those who prefer to sleep in bed at night can cover the same distance.

However, if you search the internet for the West Highland Way, you will find mostly testimonials from hikers who focus on camping.

With this article, we would like to introduce “comfort hikers” like us, to the West Highland Way. We hope that this article will inspire and give some valuable tips for an unforgettable hike on the West Highland Way.

Have fun reading!

West Highland Way – In brief

• The West Highland Way, which was officially opened in 1980, is now one of the most famous long-distance hiking trails in Europe. Around 120,000 people visit this trail every year.
• The entire route is about 154 km long.
• The starting point is Milngavie on the outskirts of Glasgow, the destination is Fort William.
• Traditionally, it is recommended to walk from south to north.
• The hike takes between 5 and 8 days.
• The highest point is at Devil’s Staircase (550 m)

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• The altitude in the Highlands is lower than in the Alpine region, but the altitude difference, where the starting point is close to 0 m above sea level, should be taken into account.
• Best time to travel: April to October.
• This time of year, especially in the summer, however, is also the time of midges, mini “biting” mosquitoes.
• Book early, as there are very few accommodations in some areas.
• In principle, wild camping is allowed in Scotland and many hikers therefore stay overnight in tents.

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• But beware. In the Highlands, it rains a lot. Very, very much.
• Food and drink can be purchased in one of the many pubs along the way or in the unmanned outlets, the Honesty Shops.
• Drinking water can be refilled in a timely manner at virtually all stages.
• Most hotels, guesthouses as well as restaurants and pubs now accept Apple Pay or credit cards (Visa or Master).
• Some change for Tringeld and especially the Honesty Shops, you should still have. Where even those can often be paid via PayPal!
• If you do not want to carry your own luggage, you can use a luggage transfer to the next accommodation.

Arriving,- & Departure West Highland Way

The West Highland Way begins in Milngavie (pronounced [mɪlgaɪ]), a suburb of Glasgow, Scotland’s largest city. To be honest, Glasgow is not the biggest highlight of Scotland from a tourist point of view, but for walkers on the West Highland Way, Glasgow is the best starting point.

The city also offers everything you need for a hike. Whether forgotten equipment, provisions or cheap accommodation to start rested in the hike – here you will find and can optimally prepare for the tour.

And yes, one or the other sight, such as St. Mungo’s Cathedral, there is of course also to see, if you are already on site.

From Fort William it is just as uncomplicated, either by train or Citylink bus, back to Glasgow or even directly to the airport.

Planning the West Highland Way walk

When should I start planning the West Highland Way?

In terms of fitness or difficulty, the West Highland Way is a relatively easy hike that doesn’t require much preparation. Of course, you should have experience with longer hikes, that is, daily stages of around 20 km or more, but unlike alpine hikes, here you do not have to worry about the difficulty of the trails.

Even the highest point with the awe-inspiring name “Devil’s Staircase” is a relatively easy section on a well paved path and is more like a walk, which is also done spontaneously by numerous day tourists (keyword road trip).

As far as organization is concerned, preparations have to be made relatively early. This is because many places on the West Highland Way have quite a limited number of beds and demand is high. You should plan at least six months in advance, especially if you want to hike in high season and snag affordable rooms.

We hiked from mid to late April, which is considered the beginning of the season, but booked our accommodations as early as January. Still, we couldn’t book all the accommodations we wanted because they were either occupied or absurdly expensive, and in some places we had to settle for bunk beds including a snoring bed neighbor.

Rowardennan, Bridge of Orchy or Inveroran, Kingshouse have particularly few or only one accommodation and it is recommended to make reservations for these places first.

Whereas, even if it is no longer possible to book accommodation in one place, it is also possible to take a bus, train or transfer service to the nearest village and return the next day.

This is at least one option if the travel dates are not flexible.

When is the best time to travel the West Highland Way?

The best time to travel the West Highland Way is usually between May and September, when the weather is most stable and warmer. However, it is important to note that during this time of year the notorious Scottish residents, the midges, are also active and having a swarm of mini midges as a constant companion can become unpleasantly annoying. Midges love to bite!

This is why we chose the month of April. From mid-April, the risk of snow and sub-zero temperatures is low and spring begins to unfold. April and May are also considered low rainfall, which is always a plus in Scotland.

Plus, there are cute little lambs in the meadows everywhere then!

And that was the right decision！

We knew from our last road trip that the weather in Scotland can be changeable even in the summer, so we had our rain gear ready. But to our surprise, not only did it not rain once, but it was really sunny every day, with often blue, almost boring skies.

We didn’t really expect to use the sunscreen we had brought just in case, extensively every day, and our full rain gear, never to be unpacked.

But as the sunny days continued, we saw the first swarms of insects in the wetlands, especially Rannoch Moor.

The owner of our accommodation in Bridge of Orchy told us that every spring there are one or two perfect weeks of sunny weather, usually followed by the start of the midge season, really annoying little mosquitoes.

Even he rarely uses his wonderful patio then, and hikers are advised to wear a face net at this time!

How many days should I plan for the West Highland Way?

When planning the West Highland Way, the first thing to consider is how many days the hike should take in total.

The most popular version of the West Highland Way is the eight-day tour, which we also opted for. To anticipate. 9 days would have been even more pleasant and by no means too long.

Actually, this split was not a problem, but the second and third stages on the shores of Loch Lomond were unexpected, physically demanding and felt longer than expected.

We were optimistic in our planning because we are actually used to hiking in the mountains, but the section from the Inversnaid Hotel was one of the most strenuous on our knees and legs we had experienced in a long time.

Of course, we knew this from our preliminary research that this section could be demanding.

But this section along Loch Lomond, which at first glance seems easy considering the elevation gain and distance, is on very unaccustomed terrain where you only realize the true difficulty along the way. Narrow path with slippery, smooth stones, which alternate with muddy paths and irregular steps.

In retrospect, we think that the path along Loch Lomond would have been more relaxed to manage if we had divided it into two parts. Especially on sunny days you can spend some time at the lake (maybe even a round trip by boat):

Balmaha to Inversnaid followed by Inversnaid – Inverarnan.

Alternatively, you could take a ferry to Ardlui and spend the night there. Because the distance from the ferry dock before Ardlui to the hotel in Inverarnan is not difficult, but it drags on like chewing gum at the end.

Since the 5th stage is relatively short, many people walk it in one day along with the 6th stage.
However, we really enjoyed this short hike as we still had tired ankles from hiking along Loch Lomond.

If you don’t have a problem walking almost 30 km a day, you can make a 6-day tour out of it. A typical six-day tour plan would look like this:

The most difficult part of the six-day tour is the third.　For the 22.2 km from Rowardennan to Inverarnan we needed 8 hours, including extended breaks and many a photo stop.After all, 8 hours for a then rather short section was surprising for us and we had some fellow hikers who needed even longer and reached the accommodation accordingly late. Also the way further to the 10 km distant Crianlarich demands again some physical effort.

We therefore recommend at least a tour in 7 stages, unless time is really tight and do without longer breaks. Scenically, the trail has a lot to offer and accordingly you should take a lot of time for it.

How well is the West Highland Way marked?

We saw a lot of people with maps along the way, but the West Highland Way is superbly signposted from start to finish, making it easy to get from Milngavie to Fort William. Even without any maps or smartphone app at all.

Cell phone reception was no problem either and internet access on the road was available and fast in almost all areas.

What gear to take on the West Highland Way?

What to take with you depends primarily on how much you can carry and whether or not you use the luggage transfer service.

Many hikers who stay in guesthouses along the West Highland Way use the transfer service so they can conveniently have a change of clothes and toiletries they don’t need during the hike carried in a suitcase or travel bag, and have only a small daypack on the trail during the hike.

Since we didn’t really want to use a luggage transfer, we packed our 40-liter backpacks – similar to what we would use on a hut tour in the Alps. However, we were concerned about the notoriously wet weather in Scotland and in addition to a complete rain kit (= rain pants, rain jacket, rain poncho) we packed a change of clothes for three days, i.e. one set carried and two sets in the backpack. On a normal tour, we always take only clothes for two days.

But as mentioned, it didn’t rain once, so our fears were for nothing. But you can never be too well prepared, because once it starts raining while hiking in the Scottish Highlands, there’s nowhere to hide.

… and in Scotland, because of the constant and fresh wind, it always likes to rain sideways and hard. Small tip for hikes in wind & rain: wear cap under the rain jacket, so that the face is protected.

In Tyndrum, so quasi halfway, there are also two stores – Green Valley Shop & Brodies Mini Market – with quite a large assortment of equipment and food for hikers. From rain covers and hiking poles to blister plasters, ankle supporters and creams for muscle aches, it’s all there.

Should you bring a hiking pole?

Although we usually rarely use walking poles on easier trails in the Alps unless there are decent elevation changes, they are generally recommended on the West Highland Way as it is often muddy and therefore slippery. Especially the more challenging stage, at Loch Lomond.

Since we were traveling to Scotland with only carry-on luggage on the plane, we were unable to bring our own walking poles. Fortunately, there are many and also inexpensive outdoor stores in Glasgow, where we bought a few walking sticks for just under 18, – pounds.

After having successfully hiked the West Highland Way, we think that especially on the first stages it is easier to hike with walking sticks and can only recommend this. It’s easy to twist your ankle or slip, especially with luggage on your back, and that’s something you want to avoid, especially on a long-distance hike.

By the way, our hiking poles are now being used by other guests at our last B&B in Fort William.

What footwear is needed for the West Highland Way?

This is a matter of personal preference that is hotly debated, but at least everyone agrees waterproof footwear is recommended, as somehow there are always muddy and slightly flooded areas, even if it hasn’t rained in a while.

Most of the West Highland Way runs along the so-called Old Military Road, which resembles a forest road in Germany. Therefore, mountain boots are really not necessary and just too clunky.

However, the Old Military Road often resembles a rather poorly paved road, so walking with thin soles is a tiring challenge for the feet. So the shoes should be able to compensate for this well.

Light, medium-height hiking shoes that are above all slip-resistant and waterproof were therefore our first choice, and the knees thank you at the end of the day.

Are there any meals along the way on the West Highland Way?

Especially if you stay in guesthouses or hotels, you are more than well catered for. If you start the day with a typical Full Scottish Breakfast, an advantage of B&B’s in Scotland, you certainly won’t be hungry until the afternoon anyway.

Baked beans, greasy sausages, fried bacon with toast, plus some Haggis (reading what all is in it, you would not and should not actually eat this specialty, but if in Scotland, hardly a way around it. And it is also somehow really delicious…) and Black Pudding (fried black pudding) give you more power for the first kilometers than needed.

In addition, most accommodations offer lunch packages, neat sandwiches – something the Scots are also good at – plus usually an apple and sweet nibbles.

Arrived at the respective stage destination and often also on the way, are then actually always one or two restaurants or pubs available, where there is something good to eat.

The possibility with drinking water to provide is also given. Only at stage 6 and 8, so at the end, it can be a little scarce on hot days and 1-2 liters of water should definitely be in the backpack. In case of emergency or if you have a filter with you, however, water can also be found on these two sections.

At the beginning of the West Highland Way, there are also small Honesty Shops set up more often in front of private homes. These are boxes or cupboards in which small things like snacks, water and usually home-baked goods are offered for some small change.

Yes, there are even coolers with ice for the hot days and who has no change at hand, can actually pay more often via PayPal!

We have of course all extensively tested and therefore at the end of our tour, so many a granola bar that we dragged from Germany, actually brought back home with us.

So, when does your West Highland Way adventure start?

In the following posts, we’ll go into a little more detail about each section.