Arriving in Tyndrum, the first 80 kilometers and thus more or less half of the West Highland Way are already behind us. The stages that follow now take us deep into the Scottish Highlands and are among the absolute highlights of the entire hike for us.
Here’s why the West Highland Way attracts hikers internationally and is one of the most popular long-distance trails in Europe.
WHW – Stage 5 Tyndrum – Bridge of Orchy
Today’s stage is the shortest at 11 km. The trail again runs mostly on an old military road and has only minor elevation changes. Originally we had planned to go this short stage at a leisurely pace and the weather was, as you can see, also actually perfect for it.
Only the strong and fresh wind, which may constantly tear the cap off your head and with headwind, so some kilometers become longer than wanted, annoyed a bit.
This wind accompanies us since we reached the typical treeless area of the Highlands. But we don’t want to complain, because with the otherwise usual rain, the way and the still following stages, would have been surely a completely different challenge!
So we allowed ourselves the first longer break quite late and on a bridge over the railroad tracks, the only place that was somehow at least somewhat protected from the wind today. The longer we sat there in the sun, the more hikers joined us with always the same comment to have finally found some peace from the wind.
We arrived at our destination for the day, Bridge of Orchy, much earlier than originally thought, giving us plenty of time to relax and enjoy the area. Bridge of Orchy is a typical place for the Highlands. A small settlement with no more than 152 inhabitants and a few houses around the hotel of the same name distributed on a handful of streets.
No matter if by bus, train or car, if you are in the Highlands on your way to Glencoe or Fort William, you will pass through here and be amazed! Therefore, be sure to plan enough time for this section.
We stopped for lunch at the hotel’s only restaurant in Bridge of Orchy until we could check into our Camping Pod, which we had reserved earlier. Hiking snacks that we had previously bought in Glasgow, or in some cases even carried from Germany, were still lying untouched in our backpacks.
The sandwiches for lunch were in any case so good that we decided to eat also the dinner in this hotel. Well, there was no other choice in the end except maybe bag soup from the Honesty Shop at our camping pod.
The prices in the restaurant are quite moderate for a hotel of this price range and the quality of the dishes is really excellent. A small but very fine menu with a typical Scottish team. Very direct, to the point but still nice.
The bar offer is also not to be sneezed at! It is wonderful to spend time with a cool ale on their terrace in front, on the rather busy road or a little quieter behind, in a park by the bridge overlooking the river.
The available accommodations are the very expensive Bridge of Orchy Hotel, a small vegan bed and breakfast Greenstone Lodge B&B across the street from the hotel, Airbnb pods, Bridge of orchy outdoors pod beinn monk where we stayed, and an apparently rather ratty hostel in the old Bridge of Orchy train station building West Highland Way Sleeper with rather poor reviews online.
Then there is the possibility to stay at the Inveroran Hotel, which is however 4 km further away from Bridge of Orchy. The Inveroran Hotel is very popular and we tried to book something months in advance, but even in April, everything was booked up well in advance.
Who wants to stay in the aforementioned Inveroran, should plan with, that the 4km over a small mountain lead, the Mam Carraigh. Just under 300 meters of altitude with a wonderful Panomarablick and lots of photo stops!
WHW – Stage 6 Bridge of Orchy – Kingshouse
The cabin or camping pod we stayed in was very comfortable and warmer than expected. Glamping so to speak and highly recommended! We had ansich a good night’s sleep and startled only briefly late at night something when the animals living nearby crept around the hut, somehow creepy noises from itself and the automatic lighting in the garden of it constantly on.
So in case anyone else is wondering why we aren’t camping, that’s another reason.
We decided to use a luggage transfer again for the remaining three legs to Fort William. So we went to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel to drop off one of our backpacks first.
Just about all hotels on the West Highland Way offer a luggage transfer for non-guests in this way, so even many campers simply send their heavy camping equipment to the nearest hotel.
Since the trail has almost no variations and accommodations are rare anyway, not much can go wrong with the transport. Important things, however, I would keep in the daypack.
Today’s route takes us first up a small hill overlooking Loch Tulla.
The climb is easy (about 160 m), and a magnificent view awaits at the top. Down this hill again we reach the Inveroran Hotel, where we had breakfast. In the Camping Pod we had only a small portion of instant porridge.
There is also a small store and cafe at the Inveroran Hotel that opened this year. They offer very good homemade sandwiches to go. So our packed lunch for the route through Rannoch Moor was secured.
Once the Inveroran Hotel is behind you, today’s trail becomes increasingly lonely. After Victoria Bridge, you hike in complete wilderness, without any houses or any civilization in sight, until you reach Glencoe Mountain Resort. There is probably no other place in Europe that feels as remote as this. Considering that the big city of Glasgow is not far away, it’s a real mystery to us why the Highlands remain so unspoiled.
The moor is surrounded by a stunning landscape of mountains, hills and lochs and is home to unique wildlife and plants. However, we saw no animals here, not even birds, and the other hikers were so far away that we felt we had entered another world.
We learned afterwards that Rannoch Moor was the filming location for a scene in Harry Potter’s “Deathly Hallows” where Death Eaters stop the Hogwarts Express. So for fans, another reason to walk this fantastic trail!
The location of the Kingshouse Hotel was really great, and although we arrived a bit earlier than planned, we didn’t get bored at all. This was due firstly to the pub, which quasi specializes in walkers, and secondly to the location itself. Deer and ducks roam freely on the extensive grounds of the Kingshouse Hotel, giving visitors the opportunity to take fantastic photos against the breathtaking backdrop of Stob Dearg or Creise.
The hotel has a small cafe store where you can buy homemade sandwiches and other snacks. There is no other place to shop in front of the Kingshouse. So if you don’t have lunch with you, this is the last possible stop.
Pub, which is housed the Kingshouse Hotel. Unlike the main hotel restaurant, the food prices are not as high but just as freshly prepared and delicious.
We booked two beds at the Kingshouse Bunkhouse with breakfast included. In general, we would definitely recommend booking breakfast as you can enjoy the same buffet as the hotel guests who pay over €300 per night. It was the richest breakfast on the West Highland Way.
We stayed in a 6-bed room, but twin and quad rooms are also available, so it’s worth booking early. Clean and numerous showers, drying room and kitchenette also available.
Kingshouse Hotel Website
WHW – Stage 7 Kingshouse – Kinlochleven
The beds in the shared rooms at Kingshouse were very comfortable and we slept relatively well, although of course we again had loud snoring neighbors, this time from the US, in the room with us.
After a wonderful, leisurely and (too) substantial breakfast, we set off in sunny weather once again for Kinlochleven, our destination for the day.
Today’s stage is short at 14.3 km, but takes us up Devils Staircase, one of the most challenging sections of the West Highland Way. Devils Staircase is the only steep climb on the West Highland Way, which otherwise has basically no major elevation changes to overcome.
So, despite the short distance, we set off a little early, assuming it would take longer today. Today’s path first leads from Kingshouse directly past the ubiquitous Buachaille Etive Mor.
The entrance to Devil’s Staircase is a small parking lot on the roadside of the famous A82 for day-trippers, and the path is, as you would expect from Scotland, well maintained and open to all visitors.
Because of the good weather, the Devil’s Staircase was much easier than the name suggested and we reached the top quite quickly.
From the summit you have a spectacular view of the surrounding area but as is also usual for Scotland, the cold strong wind from the valley did not allow for long breaks at the summit.
From here it’s almost all downhill, and relatively brisk towards Kinlochleven. Perhaps we should have taken more time to enjoy the extensive breakfast at the Kingshouse.
In the rain, however, the climb to the summit might drag on. Because it offers from start to finish absolutely no protection against the weather. So rather plan more than too little time for this section.
The route on to Kinlochleven, with the Glencoe Valley behind us, is no less spectacular. Thanks to the best weather and clear views, we could even see Blackwater Reservoir in the distance. This stage, just like yesterday, was certainly one of the highlights of the West Highland Way!
We already know today’s destination, Kinlochleven, from our last trip to Scotland, an extensive road trip.
Last time, though, we were only there briefly, mainly to see the Grey Mares waterfall. Otherwise, there is actually nothing to do there, apart from a wonderful viewpoint on Loch Leven.
Kinlochleven is very nicely situated overlooking Loch Leven, but the atmosphere is quite industrial and dreary. If in Germany most places at the lake are often popular residential and tourist places, one has in Scotland, where there are innumerable many lakes, often the impression that the life at the water has no special position more.
Since we arrived in Kinlochleven earlier than the check-in time for the B&B, we decided to take a break at the Bothy Bar at MacDonald Cabins.
The Bothy Bar is a bit out of the center of Kinlochleven, but is a great bar overlooking Loch Leven, more hiker-friendly than other pubs in town, and almost a must for any West Highland Way hiker in good weather.
Comfortable bed, warm showers with strong water pressure, heating, delicious breakfast, nice host…. in short, everything you need for a comfortable overnight stay was there. Highly recommended!
WHW – Stage 8 Kinlochleven – Fort William
Today we set off on what is now the final stage towards Fort William. On the last day of the West Highland Way, we are facing a slightly longer stretch of about 24 km, which also includes a few meters of altitude.
It was another beautiful day, and it seems that we can actually finish the tour without rain.
Although the route doesn’t have a scary name like yesterday’s Devils Staircase, it also starts right off with a steep climb in a zig-zag course, climbing a crisp 350 vertical feet in the first few miles.
We followed the advice of the B&B owner and took a short detour to a viewpoint that offered us a breathtaking view of Loch Leven. Just at the end of the zig-zag course just follow the small path to the left.
As we were told, you can’t see Loch Leven as freely or completely from the regular path if you miss this point, so a detour is indeed worth it.
By the time Lochan Lunn Da-Bhra lake comes into view, half of the day’s stage is already done. As soon as Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Great Britain, comes into view, Fort William is not so far away. But the road from here seemed quite long and we constantly had the feeling that we weren’t making much progress.
Especially at the last section the dreamlike landscape of the Highlands ends and you walk along bare mountains, with huge areas of cut down trees. Fortunately, the weather was good and we were able to hike within constant sight of Ben Nevis.
Without this impressive sight in front of our noses, the last kilometers would definitely have been tougher.
After a final coffee break at the Ben Nevis visitor center, very nice stop on the opposite side of the main road, it’s only a short distance to our destination in Fort William.
Our booked accommodation was right at the entrance to Fort William, so we first left our luggage there before heading to the end of the West Highland Way in the city center.
Of course, we also took a photo next to the famous statue and were happy about the end of this long and unique tour!
Restaurant serves Scottish cuisine with locally sourced ingredients. No reservations necessary.
Restaurant attached to the cinema with delicious pizza. Cheesecake for dessert is highly recommended!
It’s actually a soap and scented candle maker, but it also runs a cafe. The scones and clotted cream are excellent.
Guest house at the entrance to Fort William. It is 1.5 km from the town center, but is recommended for walkers as it is along the West Highland Way. Very good breakfast and great hosts.
West Highland Way – Our conclusion
We, who actually always like to organize our trips quite spontaneously, had to change things a bit here and plan the West Highland Way more long-term and prepare for this little adventure.
Although with our travel planning everything fit and went smoothly, we may have underestimated the West Highland Way hike itself a little.
Compared to the trails in the Alps, where we are at home, the West Highland Way may seem relatively easy in terms of elevation gain, distance and difficulty of the trail, but Scottish trails have their own unique challenges.
That’s why we also decided to take advantage of the luggage transfer offered along the way, which in retrospect we would have preferred to book right from the start.
Anyway, the overall infrastructure and services along the trail were excellent, and our concerns about inflation and higher prices, were not felt as much as we feared, thanks to the favorable exchange rate.
We usually lose weight on longer hiking trips, but thanks to the excellent cuisine along the route, our weight remained unchanged despite the 150+ km hike. Scones with clotted cream, is all I can say.
We were well prepared for the Scottish rain, but to our surprise it stayed dry throughout the walk and for the most part we were able to fully enjoy the spectacular scenery of the Highlands under clear skies.
The temperature in April was still cool, especially at night, but perfect for hiking. Not too warm, but fresh but not really cold anymore. However, this can change quickly. For example, a week before we arrived, it was still snowing!
The high season for the West Highland Way is July and August, but we recommend hiking the trail in spring or early fall, when it’s a bit emptier and you can experience the remoteness of the Highlands even more intensely.
Especially in the height of summer, the hike can be very strenuous due to the lack of sun and rain protection on the trail. Not to mention the annoying midges – biting mini mosquitoes.
But even outside the peak season, you should be prepared for the challenges of the West Highland Way and be aware that the trail can be quite demanding on your feet and the weather can be energy-sapping.
If you don’t have enough time to do the entire route, you could also just hike the stages mentioned here. Thanks to train and bus, the individual places are easily reached from Glasgow.
Hi, I'm Oliver
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