For a long time, Kyrgyzstan, the land of nomads and endless landscapes, had been on our travel wish list. Last July, the time had finally come and we started our journey around the mountain lake Yssykköl in Bishkek.
Many questions have reached us since then, especially about our itinerary and the must-visit places in Kyrgyzstan. Up-to-date travel tips for Kyrgyzstan, both online and in the form of a travel guide, at least in German, are still hard to find and the different spellings, Kyrgyzstan / Kirgisistan or also Kyrgyzstan, do not make it any easier.
One thing is certain: tourism in Kyrgyzstan is growing strongly and the country will certainly change quickly in this respect.
Arrival in Kyrgyzstan – Hello Bishkek
Bishkek is the bustling capital of Kyrgyzstan and at first glance leaves you with a feeling of “oh well, I won’t have to stay here long”. Concrete slab buildings, dusty streets and a jumble of old, used cars on the streets.
Nevertheless, we found it quite interesting and spent a total of 3 full days in Bishkek.
Hostels are plentiful and the core of the city can be explored wonderfully on foot. On our arrival, we stayed in a hostel just around the corner from the huge Osh Bazaar, one of the few sights in the city that every tourist is sent to first.
It’s a part of town that doesn’t necessarily make you want to go for a long walk, especially in the evening.
On our return trip, we stayed in a hotel on Bishkek’s nightlife mile and in the direct vicinity of the huge Ala Too Square. In this part of town, the Soviet history of Kyrgyzstan is beautifully demonstrated. The individual squares, the streets and the surrounding parks and buildings are all oversized and you often feel a little lost.
With a German passport valid for at least another 3 months, this is possible without any problems. We don’t need an extra visa and are allowed to stay in the country for 60 days directly. 3 months sound better? This is also no problem and can be easily applied for with an e-visa directly online at www.evisa.e-gov.kg.
Typical sights are otherwise rather less present in the cityscape. However, Bishkek gives a good first impression of what makes Kyrgyzstan tick and often surprised us in a positive way. For a Muslim country, things are quite relaxed, the local beer tastes good and there are no exorbitant tourist prices or strenuous bargaining in the markets.
The food has more influences from the rest of Asia than from Russia, which we were also very happy about. Oromo, Ashlyam Fu, Plov, Lagman or Monty, to give you a few typical dishes to Google. All delicious, super cheap and available on every corner!
☆ Hotel tip for Bishkek
To get started, we can recommend the Friends guest house & Hostel near the Osh Bazaar. The team is super nice, it’s cheap and they offer a reliable pick-up service from the airport
If, like us, you want to stay in a different corner of the city before returning home, so you can experience the nightlife without a taxi, then the Ocean Hotel is for you.
Stopover at Lake Yssykköl
In Bishkek we grabbed a taxi and drove to the Burana Tower. Ok, first we went to the pompous and rather kitschy Burana Hotel, which our taxi driver somehow found more interesting and really wanted to show us. After a bit of back and forth via Google Translate, because English is such a thing in Kyrgyzstan, we continued to the Burana Tower, a kind of minaret in front of a beautiful mountain backdrop. Unfortunately, it is no longer quite as high as it was when it was built, as an earthquake destroyed half of the tower.
A little advice for self-drivers.
July is the holiday season and the route from Bishkek to the lake is teeming with police and mobile speed cameras. It’s good business, because the posted speed limits are far below what most Kyrgyz drivers’ speedometers show.
Lake Yssykköl is very popular not only with Kyrgyz but also with neighbours in Kazakhstan and Russia. Rightly so, because the second largest mountain lake in the world is crystal clear and offers a unique panorama of the Tianshan Mountains!
Nevertheless, we decided against spending the night at the lake, because we preferred to go hiking and not lazing on the beach in the sun, and so we drove further that day to Jyrgalan Valley.
Our taxi driver insisted on a swim in the cool lake, so we stopped at the Aurora Resort Hotel, which he said had the best and quietest beach on this side of the lake and a gigantic green area in front of it. The hotel is located about 20km behind the tourist town of Cholpon Atta. A lot of tourists from Kazakhstan, the border crossing is practically on the other side of the road.
As you can see, we had a lot of fun there together and it was super refreshing after the first hours in the car.
Jyrgalan Valley – a hidden hiker’s paradise
We arrived in the Jyrgalan Valley late in the evening, as our taxi driver lost his bearings a little at the end, but we were very well welcomed by our new hosts.
After check-in, we had dinner and some information about the surroundings for the next day.
Surprisingly, we had the best internet, permanent electricity and a perfectly comfortable room. We actually expected to have to spend the night much more simply, as the village is really remote and located at the far end of Kyrgyzstan.
I will write a separate article about the Jyrgalan Valley, but this much I can say: we hiked every day, tried to follow hiking trails that were probably only thought up in 2017 and were happy that we were the only hikers in the area every day.
We met wild horses, hundreds of sheep and cows on the way, but not other tourists. We often had to find the path ourselves, because you won’t find any trampled paths there. In short, a dream!
☆ Hotel tip for Jyrgalan Valley
There is not much choice in this small village. Your best bet is to go directly to the guesthouse of Destination Jyrgalan, stay there like we did, or get accommodated in the neighbourhood at one of the cheaper guesthouses like the Salamat Guesthouse or a homestay.
Alternatively, on the outskirts of town, you can stay at Jyrgalan Yurt Camp.
Karakol, the base for hiking tourists
Karakol is something like the base camp of hiking tourists in Kyrgyzstan. From the small town at the lower end of Lake Yssykköl, a wide variety of tours start. Hostels, hotels and guesthouses abound and the prices are correspondingly friendly.
There are more sights there, but the Russian Orthodox Church or the Dunganen Mosque don’t really knock your socks off. On the other hand, Karakol is much more cosy than the big, hectic Bishkek.
Just enjoy the atmosphere, browse through the local market and feast in the small restaurants or hip coffee shops like the Lighthouse. The roadside BBQ restaurants are also highly recommended, serving huge shish kebabs fresh from the grill and beer on tap.
However, if you have a sensitive stomach and a longer hike planned for the next morning, you might prefer to go to a regular restaurant like the popular Cafe Zarina.
The large bazaar is an excellent place to buy food for upcoming hikes. From fresh fruit, vegetables and nuts to bags of biscuits, you can buy everything well and cheaply.
We always find such markets exciting, even if they sometimes take a bit of effort, because somehow you always get the best insight into a foreign region there.
☆ Hotel tip for Karakol
Our first accommodation was the KbH – Karakol based Hostel, which is great for people looking to socialise with other travellers
After our return and exhausting hikes from Altyn Arashan, we changed to the Guesthouse Nice, which is exactly the opposite and you simply find your peace in gigantically large rooms. Both guesthouses are modern and well equipped.
the hot springs at Altyn Arashan
Our next destination was the hot springs of Altyn Arashan. A must-visit in the region and so rewarding when you can soak your exhausted body in the hot water after exhausting days of hiking.
But don’t be a miser and only use the free outdoor pools, because although they look funny in a photo, they are neither really hot nor really clean. It’s best to try both!
The bathhouses are located at the back of the guesthouses directly at the river and are rented out on a first come first serve basis. So you have the hut to yourself and your companion, but you can’t really last more than half an hour in the heat anyway.
From Karakol to Altyn Arashan
To reach Altyn Arashan from Karakol, there are 3 easy options. Either you book a tour and are driven up into the mountains in a jeep or an old Russian UAZ, or you ride or have a horse carry you up.
Either way, the way into the mountains starts in the neighbouring village of Ak Suu, only a few minutes by taxi from Karakol.
However, as the road leading to Altyn Arashan is anything but in good shape and the way is an experience in itself, we recommend hiking up and spending at least one night in Altyn Arashan.
The earlier you start the hike, the better! The trail is quite steep in places, but otherwise quite easy. If you start early in the morning, however, you can still enjoy the shade of the mountains, which is otherwise rather non-existent in the country, and the jeeps with the late risers won’t bump past you yet.
There is a total of just under 18 km to run and 740 metres of altitude to climb.
☆ Hotel Tip for Altyn Arashan
Altyn Arashan actually has few proper guesthouses, but all the more yurts and campsites. We stayed at the Ala-Kul Guesthouse, which is really nice and cosy, especially as there are also private rooms in the house. The only disadvantage is that it is a bit further away from the bathing huts.
We would have much preferred to stay right next to such a hut, at VIP Travel or the new Altyn Arashan Guesthouse, but everything was booked up by a cycling tour group at that time. By the way, the accommodations in Altyn Arashan are all quite simple. No electricity at night, rustic outhouses that are especially fun when it’s raining and storming, and you don’t need to ask for the WiFi password.
Alaköl Lake as a day trip
If you want to see one of the most beautiful mountain lakes in the world, a trip to Lake Alaköl is a must. From Altyn Arashan, the lake is easy to visit with a long and quite strenuous day hike. Alternatively, you can hire a horse with a guide and ride there in a relaxed manner.
Either way, the view of the lake has to be earned! The lake is hidden behind a steep rock face made entirely of scree, which must first be climbed by everyone. If you don’t manage this part, you won’t see anything of the lake and have to start the way back disappointed.
So here again, the earlier you start, the better, and don’t forget that the trail takes you up to over 3,000 metres into the mountains! Even small ascents are strenuous and the weather can change completely in just a few minutes. A sudden hailstorm, for example, is not uncommon there in summer.
But when you reach the top, you not only have an unobstructed view of this wonderful lake, but also of a huge mountain panorama. As far as the eye can see, one ice giant after another.
Despite the beautiful sunshine, we didn’t last long up there, because the wind was so strong that standing still was quite exhausting and freezing cold.
But the good thing was, when we returned exhausted to Altyn Arashan in the evening, we threw our backpacks into the corner and booked ourselves directly into one of the bathing huts, where we could recharge our batteries wonderfully at 40 degrees.
There is nothing better than hiking trails that end at a place with hot springs!
There are a total of 20km to walk and 1,400 metres of altitude to climb.
Perhaps a note on the subject, as we witnessed a rather dicey situation ourselves. There are 2 paths leading up to the Panorama Viewpoint from the lake. Both of them consist only of boulders and if hikers coming down don’t pay attention to what they are kicking loose, the ones going up will get exactly these stones. This can end quite badly, of course, and a local guide we met at the top also told us that this is getting worse and more dangerous, because the lake has not been an insider tip for a long time. So keep your eyes open and take care!
Continue to Naryn with stops
Back in Karakol we relaxed from our hiking experience and organised a taxi for the onward journey to Naryn.
The road now led us along the other side of Lake Yssykköl and the landscape of Kyrgyzstan now showed a completely different side. Stone deserts, total aridity and not at all green as we had experienced the country before.
On the way, a stop in the so-called “Fairy Tale Canyon” or Skazka Canyon is worthwhile. A picturesque canyon that presents itself in crazy colours and wild rock formations. A real Instagram highlight, so to speak.
As the canyon is also easy to visit as a day trip from Karakol, there is quite a crowd and it is not so easy to capture the beauty of this landscape in a photo without annoying tourists.
I’m sure the others thought the same about us, so I’ll just allow myself this comment.
The way up to Naryn is about 300km long and leads along the legendary Silk Road towards China. We really had to hold back on photo stops along the way, otherwise it would have taken us a good week to get there.
The route is uniquely beautiful and we would have loved to drive along it even at dusk and sunrise.
Naryn itself is a small and very friendly town, with several supermarkets, bakeries and a bustling weekly market. Here we stocked up again with fresh fruit and everything else we thought we would need for our hike to Lake Kölsuu. As always with us, far too much snack food.
☆ Hotel tip for Naryn
We stayed in the fairly new rooms of the Datka Guest House, which are really 1A equipped, but during the renovations they forgot to install windows that can be opened. But the internet is fast and the shower is hot. You can’t have everything.
Jyrgal’s Yurt Camp and the Kölsuu Lake
The reason for our stop in Naryn was that we had to pick up a permit for the border area with China at the tourist information office. Only then could we set off in the direction of Lake Kölsuu and Jyrgal’s Yurt Camp.
The drive to Yurt Camp, which serves as a base for a hike to Kölsuu Lake and is in the middle of nowhere, is worth the trip in itself.
So don’t be put off if, as this year, Lake Kölsuu is not a gorgeous turquoise but brown and almost completely dry.
For the way up to the Yurt Camp, you either need a rental car (SUV) or, like us, you simply hire a taxi. However, this is only recommended in the dry summer, because then there is no or hardly any water in the rivers and the old cars make it through without any problems.
The route is once again a real feast for the eyes and we would have loved to take a photo break every kilometre, but we didn’t want to arrive too late at the Yurt Camp.
On the way, as I said, we pass 2 secure checkpoints where the permit is checked and the personal data is copied from the passport. Without a passport or this permit, you can’t officially go any further!
As soon as we arrived at Jyrgal’s Yurt Camp, we were called for dinner. This time in the large and fortunately well heated yurt, because the camp is already at an altitude of 3,000 metres. So as soon as the sun goes down, it gets quite chilly, even in July.
360 Degree View of Jyrgal’s Yurt Camp
If a thunderstorm should still come up now, then even a sudden hail,- snowstorm is possible. Unfortunately, we experienced this ourselves, and a thunderstorm in such a flat and treeless area did create an uneasy feeling in our stomachs.
At least we found shelter in the yurt of a shepherd after an hour’s walk through the rain, could dry ourselves and warm up again at the stove. By the way, Kyrgyz are incredibly hospitable! Invitations are not rare, there is always tea with bread or even “delicious” fermented mare’s milk, although I wouldn’t necessarily recommend the latter before a long hike.
☆ Equipment for Kyrgyzstan
One more recommendation about equipment. We were very happy to have bought new folding hiking poles beforehand, because they were really worth their weight in gold in some places!
No water in Lake Kölsuu
To our surprise, Lake Kölsuu had dried up completely and when we found out about it in Naryn, we almost scrapped our plans and went on to Lake Songköl. However, we both found the photos of it not really exciting and, fortunately, decided to go to Lake Kölsuu after all.
360 Degree View of Lake Kölsuu
So without water, there was probably too little snow the year before, you see the lake then also very rarely and had something very fascinating. If we hadn’t still had the way back, we would have liked to hike through the entire lake once!
We had more water than we would have liked on our way back. Due to the heavy rain, the small river, which we had previously been able to cross dry by skilfully jumping from stone to stone, was quite swollen. So we had no choice but to walk through the ice-cold and knee-deep water.
We already had wet feet anyway.
☆ Accommodation at Lake Kölsuu
Near Lake Kölsuu there are 3 yurt camps and several spots by a river that are good for camping. The yurts are first-come, first-served, but they are rarely completely full, so everyone gets their own private yurt. Electricity is only available for a short time, when the generator is turned on for light in the evening or the boss of the house needs her washing machine. No kidding, there is a washing machine in a meadow in the middle of nowhere, which is filled with water by hand for each wash cycle!
Summary of our 1st Kyrgyzstan trip
Kyrgyzstan was once again a small adventure, but it is wonderful and surprisingly easy to travel through, despite the language barriers. We were on the road for 2.5 weeks and it could have easily been a few more days. Our Route on Google Maps. There are endless hiking trails, also wonderful multi-day hikes, especially around Karakol and the Jyrgalan Valley, and the people were all really not only nice, but extremely hospitable.
The mix of travellers is also very likeable. You meet backpackers, nature lovers and off-road fools of all ages and backgrounds, as well as cyclists who have already covered thousands of kilometres on their bikes.
For once, we Germans are in the minority, because most of Europe’s tourists currently come from France! In winter, however, it’s a different story. Jyrgalan Valley, for example, is very popular with us for freestyle skiing.
Down on a snowboard, up again on a horse! We have therefore already written a winter visit high on our to-do list.
Hi, I'm Oliver
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